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Posts Tagged ‘marilyn webb’

When we planted it in 1979, the Southeast Block looked just like the other two Pinot blocks planted that year on the newly cleared east side of our vineyard, with cuttings from Dick Erath’s Pommard clone Pinot noir stuck directly into the ground without benefit of phylloxera-resistant rootstock.

But soon after these three look-alike Pinot blocks started producing fruit, differences in their soil depth began to assert themselves. The South Block was always a bit overly vigorous; the Flat Block was always a bit weak.  The Southeast Block was always Just Right, and was clearly destined to be Goldilocks’ favorite.

To top it off, in 1998 the famous French geologist Yves Herody, consultant to many of Burgundy’s biodynamic vignerons, declared that our Southeast Block was created by a different geological event than the blocks next to it, giving its parent rock a Unique Mineral Content.  By then it had already become our glory hog.

During the ‘80’s, when we were still selling most of our fruit to other wineries, the Southeast Block was the Chosen Block of Domaine Drouhin Oregon.  After 1991, when we started bottling our own Southeast Block designated wine, it regularly got the highest score of all our Pinots.  It was almost always our Featured Wine at the International Pinot Noir Celebration.  It usually provided our Chosen Barrel for the ¡Salud! auction.

Always a prima donna, unwilling to share the spotlight, the SEB has never been a component in our Casteel Reserve.

In 2006 the Southeast Block was the Chosen Block for the Cellar Crawl Collection, a “best block” fruit trade experiment between Bethel Heights, Penner-Ash, Ken Wright, Cristom and Solena.

This year the 2008 Southeast Block was selected as the only Oregon Pinot for the inspiring wine list at Boston’s new Legal Harborside Restaurant, a collection of only 50 wines from around the world “whose personality originates from an individual place, wine whose identity reflects a single family’s connection to the particular parcel of earth that it tends.”

As Ben described it for the Harborside Collection, “The roots of these own-rooted vines have grown down and explored our rocky volcanic soil for over thirty years, and in doing so have produced wines that are defined far more by their place, than by vintage or by the hand of the winemaker.  Since my father first started bottling wines from the Southeast Block as single-block designates in 1991, this block has given us wines with a firm backbone combined with robust savory fruit and a deep minerality that is unique to this place.”

The Southeast Block is thirty-two years old this year. There are signs that phylloxera has finally discovered its unprotected roots, but Mimi’s worm tea is being liberally applied to boost its immune system, and we believe its best years may still be ahead.  Certainly the 2007 and 2008 Southeast Block Pinots are two of the most glorious and ageworthy wines we have ever produced.

If the Southeast Block were a person, who would it be?

Ted:  Spencer Tracy or Humphrey Bogart  (a bit rough on the outside, but solid intellect and sweet heart on the inside)

Mimi:  Robert Redford (good when young, great when old)

Ben:  Paul Newman (better than Redford, same reasons)

Kate:  Katherine Hepburn

Mimi:  SEB can’t be a woman, but if it were, it would be Katherine Hepburn

Pat:  Sean Connery (tough but smooth, becoming more interesting with age)

Mimi:  Not Sean Connery.  SEB can’t have an accent.

Terry:  Jamie Tombaugh (because if the SEB has anything, it has character)

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Finally got them to  stand still long enough to be introduced!  Top to bottom, wearing their new Oregon Certified Sustainable Wine t-shirts:

Kate Ayres, Mimi Casteel, Jaime Guzman, Alex Bogetti, Pat Dudley, Don Kowitz, Jose Luis Martinez, Ben Casteel, Ted Casteel…   and Marilyn


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Don, New Kate, and Mimi smiling on Pinot

Another long and very satisfying day:  25 tons of gorgeous Pinot noir, including all of the Southeast Block and South Block, harvested under sunny skies.   6:45 pm:  Sun setting, Moon and Jupiter rising, and everyone is still smiling tonight as the work goes on.

Ted, Marilyn and Ben smiling on lunch

What the crush crew had for lunch today:  beef kebobs with chanterelles over risotto, and a side of Caesar salad – Marilyn is spoiling us, but no wonder everyone is still smiling!   We have TWO chanterelle hunters on our crush crew this year, our brand new Kate and our good old Alex.

Jack hanging in there

Jack is home from the kennel, cannon shell-shock averted.  Now that harvest is underway, he can head for the winery at daybreak (cannon-break) and spend the day under the table in the office until Ted turns off the cannons and it’s time for a moonrise walk!

 

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From Marilyn:  One last seasonal recipe before I start cooking daily for the crew.  Perfect accompaniment to our 2008 Estate Grown Pinot Noir!

Hint:  In the woods, they are free!  In the store they are very expensive.  Yes, it’s Oregon’s state mushroom, the golden chanterelle.  Here is an adaptation from a recipe served by the Stephanie Inn, a beautiful resort and restaurant in Cannon Beach.

Enjoy!

Chanterelle Mushroom Appetizer

Serve with  Bethel Heights Estate Grown Pinot Noir

2 cups fresh chanterelles, stems mostly removed, brushed clean and cut into bite size pieces

Preheat oven to 350.

Marinade for roasting:

1/4th cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 T soy sauce

1 clove garlic, minced or pressed through garlic press

1/2 T chives, minced

3/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup water

1/2 T Dijon mustard

Salt and pepper to taste – after roasting

2 T butter – after roasting

Place mushrooms in marinade and toss to cover.  Roast in baking dish for 20 minutes or more until they are soft and cooked through.

Drain off most of liquid (reserve for other use – great on pasta or in soups).

Add 2 T butter to drained, warm mushrooms.

Serve warm on crostini.

Serves 4

 

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Message from Marilyn’s Kitchen:

It’s Summer!  Fruits and vegetables are overflowing at Farmers’ Markets across the country.  Here in Oregon, we have early peaches, beautiful Eastern Oregon cantaloupes, and Hermiston watermelons, just to name a few.  I have been experimenting with this watermelon salad, ever since tasting it at one of our monthly AVA meetings here in the Eola-Amity Hills.  At first I was sure it was a cherry tomato salad, given the way the watermelon was cut, and was delighted with my mistake.

Serve with a slightly chilled Bethel Heights Pinot Blanc ’09 or Pinot Gris ‘09.  Both bring a nice acidity to the sweetness of the watermelon.

Recipe:  Watermelon Salad

Small seedless melon, about four – five cups.

½  cup diced red onion, or sweet onion of your choice

½  cup crumbled feta cheese,

¼  cup snipped fresh basil

Lemon vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Using a melon ball tool, cut tiny circles of watermelon, and place in a colander to drain as you work.  Add the following to the colander, without mixing.

Diced onion (very fine)

Snipped basil (thin threads)

Crumbled feta

At this point, you can place the colander in a larger bowl and refrigerate, covered, till you are ready to serve the same day.  Watermelon doesn’t include the word “water” for nothing, so I don’t actually mix everything together until I add the dressing.  Just let the onion, basil and feta sit on top of your melon without mixing until you are ready to add the dressing and serve.

Dressing:

1/2 cup vegetable oil (not olive oil for this one….lighter is better)

¼ cup lemon juice, freshly squeezed.

Dash of hot sauce (Tabasco)

Dash of salt

½ – 1 T sugar (to taste)

Refrigerate dressing till you are ready to mix.

Check our website, under Marilyn’s Kitchen, for a delightful fresh peach soup, also a winner for summer, served with our Bethel Heights ‘09 Unoaked Chardonnay.

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Some say the best thing about harvest is lunch time!  Marilyn cooks for the crew almost every day, with occasional breaks for a guest chef.  Salmon chowder with bacon was such a big hit that we posted the recipe on our web site recipe archive.  Bon appetit!

chowder lunch

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vultures-dryingTerry captured these two turkey vultures drying their wings, perched on vineyard end posts at Bethel Heights one early April morning when the sun favored us with an appearance.  The vultures arrived in the Willamette Valley punctually, around the middle of March.  One day you look up into the sky and there they are, four or five or more, catching thermals, soaring around in circles for hours, scouting the countryside looking for lunch.  They have really good eyesight and a highly developed sense of smell which makes them very good at what they do.  And thinking about the smell part leads me to say there are some things about turkey vultures you really don’t want to know.  I sort of stopped reading when I found our about the tendency to urinate on their legs and the vomiting part.  But hey,  every species has its quirks and they do their part to keep the neighborhood cleaned up and smelling springtime fresh.

Marilyn

Observer of vineyard life

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Keri and friends

Keri and friends

Jelly Bean the rescue cat loves Keri, our bookkeeper.  She used to sit on Keri’s chair, lap, sometimes her keyboard.  Then came Tony, the Pug. 

The New Guy

The New Guy

Now everybody shares.  The next time you visit, and if it’s during business hours, come find our office and meet the dynamic duo, JellyBean and Tony.  Keri will introduce you.

From Jelly Bean’s second favorite and her chair,

Marilyn Webb

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Chardonnay is treated just like pinot noir at Bethel Heights – like royalty, in other words.  Thinned right after bloom to two tons per acre, shoots carefully positioned, leaves pulled in the fruit zone for air circulation, and harvested only when it is good and ready. 

The relatively young blocks of Dijon clone Chardonnay on rootstock always ripen earlier than the 30-year-old own-rooted Wente clone.   We picked our Dijon blocks on October 14, and the Wente six days later.  The fruit from both was gorgeous – translucent and golden, no sunburn and no botrytis.

Once it gets to the winery, Chardonnay is no longer treated like Pinot noir.  It’s almost exactly the opposite, every step of the way.  It goes straight into the press as soon as it is picked: no de-stemming and no sitting around in its skin like Pinot noir.  The idea is to extract as little tannin as possible from the skins, seeds and stems.  

Less tannin is extracted when you press whole clusters, so that’s how we do it, even though the whole clusters take a lot longer to press than destemmed berries.  If you press gently, as one should, it takes about one and a half hours to press the juice out of three tons of whole clusters.  After pressing, the juice sits in a settling tank for at least 72 hours until it is completely clarified, and then it goes straight into barrel before yeast is added.  The entire fermentation occurs inside the barrel, which makes it a lot harder to manage than a pinot noir fermentation where you can at least see what’s going on. 

Straight into the press. Do not pass Go.

Go straight into the press. Do not pass Go.

 

 

Alex filling a puncheon

Alex filling an outdoor puncheon with Chardonnay

 

Ben is using quite a few puncheons for Chardonnay this year.   A puncheon is just like a regular French oak barrel except twice as big.  It gives you all the benefit of barrel fermentation in terms of textural richness in the wine, but without obtrusive oak flavor.  A puncheon holds about 120 gallons (50 cases of wine) when it’s full, but they are only partially filled at this stage because the fermentation makes such an uproar that most of the wine would end up on the floor if the barrel were filled any higher.  Ben got the bright idea this year to set the puncheons outside during fermentation to cool down the uproar a bit.

Chardonnay bubbling over

Chardonnay worth the mess

We also make a small amount of  “unoaked” Chardonnay that ferments in a refrigerated stainless steel tank, nice and easy, just like Pinot gris and Pinot blanc.  That’s good too.  But here we are talking about traditional Burgundian style Chardonnay, and you’ve got to really love it to go through this whole messy process.  And this is only the beginning…  Obviously we love it.    

Try our 2006 Estate Chardonnay some time with Marilyn’s butternut squash risotto with gorgonzola (in the recipe archive at http://www.bethelheights.com).  It will make you a believer.

Pat Dudley

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Chanterelles leaping into Donna Morris's basket

Chanterelles leaping into Donna Morris's basket

Many friends of Bethel Heights know that Terry, our winemaker some 23 years, has Parkinson’s disease.  One of the unexpected treasures Terry and I have experienced as a result of his Parkinson’s is meeting a group of terrific people who support the research program looking for the cure at Oregon Health Sciences University.  For three years a small group of us have organized a wine auction under the auspices of the OHSU Foundation, with all proceeds going to the research program.

 

This year, one of the top auction items was a mushroom hunt in the Mt. Hood wilderness area.  The item was so popular that two groups are going these waning days of October. The first hunt happened this Wednesday, followed on Thursday with a fabulous dinner featuring mushrooms, of course, at the Joel Palmer House in Dayton.  Jack Czarnecki, owner of the restaurant and an avid mushroom hunter, went with us on our day in the woods.  We didn’t actually see how many mushrooms he got, but we suspect enough to feed the full house restaurant crowd on Thursday.   

Dinner at Joel Palmer house in Dayton.  Luckily, no one got lost in the woods!

Dinner at Joel Palmer house in Dayton. Luckily, no one got lost in the woods!

Jack Czarnecki, owner of the Joel Palmer house, and our host for dinner.

Jack Czarnecki, owner of the Joel Palmer house, and our host for dinner.

Master mind of the mushroom hunt was organizer Barney Hyde and his wife Melody who took great care of our band of nine, feeding us a great lunch in the woods, providing whistles and walkie talkies for some of us, like me, who turn around three times and wonder where the car is. 

 

It was a day of climbing over logs, mistaking a leaf for a chanterelle here and there, and calling Barney over to examine several “little brown mushrooms” – ie., not edible.  But the chanterelles were there, like golden treasures,  filling our baskets.   Yesterday the Bethel Heights’ crush crew had chanterelle and smoked salmon lasagna accompanied by a bottle of Pinot as we celebrated the first day of grapes coming in,  ripe for the crush.   The basic recipe is from The Green’s vegetarian cookbook, but I added lox and mozarella for volume and extra protein.  It worked very well.

Barney and Melody Hyde, leaders of the pack.

Barney and Melody Hyde, leaders of the pack.

Bill Sweat & Donna Morris, Winderlea Winery; Davind & Jeanne Beck, Crawford-Beck Vineyard.

Left to right: Bill Sweat & Donna Morris, Winderlea Winery; Davind & Jeanne Beck, Crawford-Beck Vineyard.

One last thought.  Michael Pollan, author of The Omnivore’s Dilemma, has a new policy statement on sustainability in our food chain, addressed to the President Elect.  It appeared in The Times yesterday.  Here is the link: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/12/magazine/12policy-t.html

I hope it’s taken seriously and he’s given a cabinet post.  Pollan’s work on sustainability, which includes reducing our carbon footprint with one way being to eat local reminds of my day in the woods.  We carpooled, and our gas was the only carbon involved, with a few walkie talkie batteries tossed in.  The rest is nature at its best…..harvesting a bounty that requires nothing from us except physical exertion and patience.  Really a great day. 

Cheers!

Marilyn Webb

 

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