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When we planted it in 1979, the Southeast Block looked just like the other two Pinot blocks planted that year on the newly cleared east side of our vineyard, with cuttings from Dick Erath’s Pommard clone Pinot noir stuck directly into the ground without benefit of phylloxera-resistant rootstock.
But soon after these three look-alike Pinot blocks started producing fruit, differences in their soil depth began to assert themselves. The South Block was always a bit overly vigorous; the Flat Block was always a bit weak. The Southeast Block was always Just Right, and was clearly destined to be Goldilocks’ favorite.
To top it off, in 1998 the famous French geologist Yves Herody, consultant to many of Burgundy’s biodynamic vignerons, declared that our Southeast Block was created by a different geological event than the blocks next to it, giving its parent rock a Unique Mineral Content. By then it had already become our glory hog.
During the ‘80’s, when we were still selling most of our fruit to other wineries, the Southeast Block was the Chosen Block of Domaine Drouhin Oregon. After 1991, when we started bottling our own Southeast Block designated wine, it regularly got the highest score of all our Pinots. It was almost always our Featured Wine at the International Pinot Noir Celebration. It usually provided our Chosen Barrel for the ¡Salud! auction.
Always a prima donna, unwilling to share the spotlight, the SEB has never been a component in our Casteel Reserve.
In 2006 the Southeast Block was the Chosen Block for the Cellar Crawl Collection, a “best block” fruit trade experiment between Bethel Heights, Penner-Ash, Ken Wright, Cristom and Solena.
This year the 2008 Southeast Block was selected as the only Oregon Pinot for the inspiring wine list at Boston’s new Legal Harborside Restaurant, a collection of only 50 wines from around the world “whose personality originates from an individual place, wine whose identity reflects a single family’s connection to the particular parcel of earth that it tends.”
As Ben described it for the Harborside Collection, “The roots of these own-rooted vines have grown down and explored our rocky volcanic soil for over thirty years, and in doing so have produced wines that are defined far more by their place, than by vintage or by the hand of the winemaker. Since my father first started bottling wines from the Southeast Block as single-block designates in 1991, this block has given us wines with a firm backbone combined with robust savory fruit and a deep minerality that is unique to this place.”
The Southeast Block is thirty-two years old this year. There are signs that phylloxera has finally discovered its unprotected roots, but Mimi’s worm tea is being liberally applied to boost its immune system, and we believe its best years may still be ahead. Certainly the 2007 and 2008 Southeast Block Pinots are two of the most glorious and ageworthy wines we have ever produced.
Ted: Spencer Tracy or Humphrey Bogart (a bit rough on the outside, but solid intellect and sweet heart on the inside)
Mimi: Robert Redford (good when young, great when old)
Ben: Paul Newman (better than Redford, same reasons)
Kate: Katherine Hepburn
Mimi: SEB can’t be a woman, but if it were, it would be Katherine Hepburn
Pat: Sean Connery (tough but smooth, becoming more interesting with age)
Mimi: Not Sean Connery. SEB can’t have an accent.
Terry: Jamie Tombaugh (because if the SEB has anything, it has character)
Posted in Great Wine Demystified | Tagged 2007 vintage, 2008 vintage, Ben Casteel, Bethel Heights Southeast Block Pinot Noir, Bethel Heights Vineyard, Kate Crowe, marilyn webb, mimi casteel, Oregon Pinot Noir, pat dudley, pinot noir, ted casteel, terry casteel | 2 Comments »
Flying in from everwhere
Escaping flooded fields
Fleeing bird’s beaks
Zooming through vent holes of compost bins
The top of the food chain.
The orange flows Directs the food chain
Of flyers and crawlers.
With the Beetles
It’s only poop for so long.
(from The Return of the Fertilizer King and Other Tales, by Mark U. Sturges)*
The microcosm of organisms that Mimi has been cultivating inside the old dairy tank experienced a population explosion over the winter, fueled by all those sacks of leftover vegetables that people keep leaving on her desk.
Oblivious to freezing winter temperatures, the red worms have become a mass of squirming spaghetti. (These are the eisenia fetida worms that are sold live at $45.95 per 1000 in home gardening catalogues, credited with eating half their weight in organic matter every day.) The tiny threadlike white worms and fat little grubs have been just as prolific, and one can only assume the invisible microorganisms have been no less busy.
In spite of all this prolific life, Mimi has been fretting about the absence of beetles, so imagine the thrill when she opened the lid last week and found they had finally arrived …
The Argytids look
over the pumpkin supply
and then they breed their way
into proper numbers
to accomplish the job.*
is an old friend of Bethel Heights. A extraordinarily effective wine salesman in his day job, Mark is now almost entirely devoted to growing compost, which for Mark is a poetic activity. It was Mark who inspired Mimi’s worm farm project, taught her how to brew compost tea, and provided her starter set of bugs and worms to get it going. Mark’s farm, Chili Nervanos in Bandon, Oregon, ships organic compost and nematodes and dung beetles to thirty states. Rather than concentrating on thermal composting or composting with worms, as many composters do, Mark encourages the greatest number of creatures possible to inhabit his compost. He wants “the whole neighborhood.”
Bethel Heights is pleased to announce the release of our first 2009 vintage Pinot noir. We had a very warm summer in 2009 that gave us ripe, rich Pinot flavors, with a cool end of season to retain acidity. The wines are luscious and vibrant, and drinking beautifully even at this early stage in their life.
We are also pleased to announce that both our 2009 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (immediate release) and our 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (anticipated June release) have Stelvin closures instead of corks, promising that the wine in every bottle is exactly the same vibrant, flawless wine we put into the bottle, uncompromised by any degree of cork taint.
Our fearless second-generation leaders, Ben Casteel and Mimi Casteel, precipitated this decision to move from corks to screwcaps after a long, arduous year of road trips. After opening and pouring many bottles of Pinot noir at trade tastings, seminars, wine dinners, and distributor ride-withs all over the country, each of them returned home with stories about repeated experiences of bottles that were just a bit “off.” The bottles that put them over the edge were not the ones that were obviously corked, with that nasty smell that no one can miss; they were just dumb. It was the subtle variations that bothered them the most. No one could tell there was any problem with those bottles except those who knew the wines intimately, and knew how beautiful the wine was before it went into the bottle.
Lots of excuses are made for such bottle variability. We are finally convinced the problem is with the corks. No matter how much we pay to get the best corks, there is always a certain percentage that robs the wine of its integrity after it goes into the bottle, maybe as high as 10%.
We’ve been using Stelvin closures on most of our white wines since 2004. Without fail, they retain their purity and freshness in the bottle. Many wineries throughout the world have been using Stelvin closures on their highest quality ageworthy wines for years now, with great success. There was simply no longer any reason to say no, when Ben and Mimi dug in their heels and said “no more corks” for these wines that travel all over the country making new friends for Bethel Heights.
Our 2009 Casteel Reserve and single vineyard Pinots are still cork-finished, since these are destined primarily for the cellars of people who already know our wines. But we’re keeping an open mind about 2010…
Meanwhile, the entire Bethel Heights family is very pleased to introduce our 2009 cork-free Pinot noir and we welcome comments from all who meet them.
Posted in Great Wine Demystified | Tagged 2009 Vintage, Ben Casteel, Bethel Heights Estate Pinot Noir, Bethel Heights Vineyard, Bethel Heights Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, mimi casteel, Oregon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley | 2 Comments »
2003 GAI 3052 Top Monoblock
With custom built trailer and tractor
Production rate cork, 60 bpm; screwcap rate: 50 bpm
12 spout Bottle Washer converted to Sparger, Single-head Leveler, Single-head Corker, Single-head Screw Capper (adaptable to vino lock)
Comes with 3 sets of change parts and lots of extras
Please contact Jon Casteel (971)-237-7817 firstname.lastname@example.org
We are pleased to introduce the newest addition to the Bethel Heights family, Dana B. Frank. Dana has been hired as our Direct Consumer Sales Manager, a position we have created for the purpose of focusing more time on our tasting room, on-line, and Cellar Club customers.
Dana comes to us with a wide array of wine experience in Portland. She received the Certified Sommelier award from the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2005, and has spent the past 5 years working as a buyer and sommelier for both retailers and restaurants in Portland such as New Seasons, 23Hoyt, clarklewis, and Grüner where she was also the general manager. Additionally, Dana worked for Triage Wines, selling an eclectic portfolio of small-production, naturally-farmed wines from around the world.
She has participated on tasting panels, taught wine classes for the local chapter of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, and is involved with Oregon’s International Pinot Noir Celebration.
We consider ourselves very lucky to have found her!
Kate’s fresh fragrant trees, just cut yesterday, were lining up last night outside the tasting room door, ready for this weekend’s Wine and Trees Special. Terry was poised to get first choice, but they are all beautiful!